babban riga (big gown), unrecorded Hausa-Fulani artist

Exhibition Label: "Roots and Journeys: Encountering Global Arts and Cultures," Jul-2011, Nancy Mahaney Riga, or gown, is a traditional garment worn by Hausa men. Both the materials and embroidered motifs reflect long-held Hausa traditions as well as specific gender roles in Hausa society. The cotton cloth is woven by Hausa men on horizontal treadle looms in wide strips and then sewn together into a large gown to be worn over a tunic and trousers. The embroidery utilizes indigenous wild silk called tsamiya, which is first spun into thread by Hausa women and then embroidered by men. Many different motifs are evident on the gown, such as the two long triangles on the front pocket arranged in the aska biyu, or “two knives,” pattern. Hausa arts are a confluence of indigenous designs and Islamic traditions. Calligraphy from the Qur’an mixes with Hausa symbols throughout the embroidery. The color white is symbolic of religious piety, making it appropriate for any occasion, including religious ceremonies. The deep pocket on the front of the gown can be used to carry large, loose-leaf copies of the Qur’an.