Jingasa (ceremonial military hat), unknown maker from Japan

Archive Label 2003: The dragonfly decoration on this military dress hat is emblematic of success in battle. Several names for this insect are homophones for words that mean “victory.” Dragonflies, accordingly, were frequently used as emblems on battle-dress, arrow quivers, and other military gear. This dragonfly faces a mon, or family crest. Family crests were initially used in the 11th century as ornamental emblems for costumes worn by high-ranking courtiers at the imperial court. They based their emblem designs on refined and elegant subjects such as cranes, wisteria, peonies, and iris. When the warrior class came to power at the end of the 12th century, they adopted custom and applied mon to banners, military implements, and battle dress. Crests were a means to identify factions in the heat of battle, making simple, easy to recognize designs, such as swords, fans, and serpent’s eyes particularly appropriate. Later, during the peaceful Edo period (1615-1868), the use of mon spread to other classes. Samurai families continued to follow the tradition, but no longer needed wartime symbolism. Symmetrical crests encircled by a gold band were very popular. Crests were applied to articles of ceremonial dress, such as this jingasa. The mon executed in gold on it is a good Edo-period example. It represents oak leaves.