woman's long pao (dragon robe), unknown maker from China

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K'o-ssu is a plain weave (a simple interlace), woven on slanting, girdle-back looms. The silk wefts (cross-wise threads) are wound on bobbins, one for each color, and woven back and forth in an area where a particular color is needed on undyed Z-plied (twisted) silk warps (lengthwise threads). The wefts are untwisted or only slightly twisted in order to take advantage of the light reflective qualities of the silk. The gold and silver threads are created by wrapping gold or silver foil around a lacquered paper core. Like embroidery and unlike drawloom weaving, k'o-ssu permits great flexibility and individuality in the weaver's treatment of the design, which was sometimes traced on the warps or placed on a piece of paper behind them.