chao fu (audience robe), unknown maker from China

Exhibition Label: “Flowers, Dragons and Pine Trees: Asian Textiles in the Spencer Museum of Art,” Nov-2005, Mary Dusenbury This beautifully executed chao fu has several distinctive features that may provide clues to its ownership. The unusual use of peonies as a dominant motif on a formal garment suggests that this “audience robe” belonged to a woman; the emphasis on Buddhist motifs-endless knot, vase, wheel of the Law, parasol, canopy, conch shell, fish and lotus (under the overflap)-points to a person of mature years; the surprising use of single rather than paired motifs (a common symbol of matrimony) suggests that the owner herself was single Archive Label 2003: The chaofu, or ‘audience robe,’ was the most formal official garment worn at court during the Qing dynasty. It is characterized by a design that may have been based on garments for horse riding. The sleeves taper to shut out the wind and the large ‘horse-hoof’ cuffs could cover the hands and keep them warm while holding reins. The skirt is also slit at the sides to allow more freedom of movement when mounted. After the conquest of China, the Manchu elite emphasized maintaining military skills such as riding, and such garment designs probably reflect this ideal. Formal garments such as the chaofu were subject to detailed regulations that determined appropriate colors and decorations according to the status of the wearer. In this case, the dragon is the most prominent symbol, one associated with imperial power. The number of embroidered dragons indicates that this robe was probably intended for a high-ranking imperial prince. Other symbols include stylized red bats, symbols of luck since the words for ‘red bat’ and ‘abundant luck’ sound similar in Chinese. The dragons and other decorative motifs are traditional Chinese symbols adopted by the Manchus, and are carefully arranged on the robe to give a sense of balance and symmetry.