Unique Rose quilt, Mother of Clara Gillham

Exhibition Label:
"Quilts! Imported Fabrics, American Treasures," May-2004, Barbara Brackman
Between 1840 and 1880, American quilt makers had a passion for a cotton called Turkey red. They based distinctive quilt styles on the Turkey red color scheme, evident in this appliquéd masterpiece. Turkey red dye takes its name from the old Turkish Empire. The process was invented in India, the heart of cotton traditions, and exported west to the Ottoman Empire, ruled from Istanbul. About 1750, European dyers sent industrial spies to bring home the secrets of Turkey red. Mills in Scotland, London and Provence subsequently specialized in the technique, which involved more than a dozen steps over many months. American dye houses never seem to have developed a Turkey red industry using the natural dyeing process, despite the popularity of the fiery red cloth here.

Clara Gillham (1862-1939) donated this particular quilt to the University collection. She graduated from KU in 1884 and was a university librarian from 1894 to 1939. She may have brought it with her from her Illinois home, but it’s doubtful that she made it, as she was too young child in 1865, the end of the trend for such beautiful needlework.