Kashmir shawl, unknown maker from India

Shawls from Kashmir, a region of the Indian subcontinent, were originally made of the fine, lustrous fleece of the cashmere goat with motifs woven in a rare and difficult twill-tapestry technique. While this area was under European colonial rule, Kashmiri craftsmen wove these shawls for export to Western markets. Prized for their fine fiber, exquisite craftsmanship, and typical cone motifs, these shawls dominated the European fashion world from the late 18th century through the third quarter of the 19th century.
Dress fashions changed radically during this period of empire building and industrial revolution, but a close collaboration between Kashmiri and French designers, the adaptability and ingenuity of Kashmiri craftsmen, and a continuing European fascination with objects and motifs associated with colonized South Asia ensured a remarkable longevity for the Kashmir shawl among fashion-conscious European women. Sixteen Kashmir shawls form part of Sallie Casey Thayer’s original gift.