Native Fashion

Exhibition

Exhibition Overview

Native Fashion
Native Fashion
Sydney Pursel, curator
September 1, 2024–January 5, 2025
Galleries 315, 316, 317, Spencer Museum of Art, University of Kansas, Lawrence, Kansas

Native Fashion features traditional garments, powwow regalia, streetwear, accessories, haute couture, photography, and contemporary art by national and local Indigenous designers alongside examples from the Spencer Museum's collection. The exhibition highlights the artistic richness of wearable artworks and their connection to historical and contemporary culture as expressions of tribal and personal identity. An accompanying runway show will showcase the talent of contemporary makers and remind visitors that display cases are not the natural context for Indigenous apparel. The exhibition examines the role fashion and adornment play in Indigenous lifeways through four themes that were developed in collaboration with a team of Native community advisors:

“Resilience” features Indigenous genius through innovation, technology, and resourceful use of materials, including how trade among Native groups and later Europeans affected craft, design, and embellishment.

“Representation” celebrates the diversity that exists among the 573+ federally recognized Tribes, featuring various styles of traditional and contemporary dress while educating the public about the differences between cultural appropriation and appreciation.

“Politics” discusses the ways colonization, government policies, and activism have affected Indigenous identity and dress, including why American flag motifs were incorporated into beadwork and how activist groups utilize wearable symbols for awareness and solidarity.

“Community” highlights artists, designers, and storytellers within our local Indigenous community. A workshop space allows people to gather, sit and relax, make art, touch material samples, and browse Native fashion publications.

Exhibition images

Works of art

Jontay “Kahm” Kahmakoatayo
Void , 2023
Kevin Pourier (born 1958)
Lily Hope
Isabella Falashoka (born 1964)
Wendy Red Star (born 1981)
Teri Greeves (born 1970)
Tokeya Waci U Richardson
Diamond Williams (born 1995)
Diamond Williams (born 1995)
Moon Guide, 2024
Diamond Williams (born 1995)
Cara Romero (born 1977)
Naomi, 2018
Leona Antoine (born 1979); Morning Star Designs by Leona Antoine
Claudia Tyner Little Axe - A TiPi Makers Daughter (born 1972)
Claudia Tyner Little Axe - A TiPi Makers Daughter (born 1972)
Sage Mountainflower (born 1975)
Sage Mountainflower (born 1975)
Marguerite M. Nellis (1906–1998)
Haskell Student, circa 1939
Diego Romero (born 1964, active circa 1986–present); Black Rock Editions, LLC (founded 2019)
Pueb Fiction, 2020
Jaune Quick-to-See Smith (1940–2025)
Modern Times, 1994
Ryan RedCorn (born 1979)
Marguerite M. Nellis (1906–1998)
Haskell Student, circa 1939
Diego Romero (born 1964, active circa 1986–present); Landfall Press (active 2004–present)
Cara, 2018
Henry Payer (born 1986)
Josh MacPhee (born 1973); Stumptown Printers (founded 1999)
Orville John Green (1872–1938)
Cara Romero (born 1977)
Oil & Gold, 2021
Orville John Green (1872–1938)
Marguerite M. Nellis (1906–1998)
Orville John Green (1872–1938)
Molly Murphy Adams (born 1977)
Leona Antoine (born 1979); Morning Star Designs by Leona Antoine
Katrina Miller
Patricia Michaels (born 1966); PM Waterlilly by Patricia Michaels (founded 1994)
Patricia Michaels (born 1966); PM Waterlilly by Patricia Michaels (founded 1994)
Eagle Feather Wings, 2019 - 2019
AJ Holder (born 2000)
AJ Holder (born 2000)
untitled (T-dress), 2019 - 2019
AJ Holder (born 2000)
AJ Holder (born 2000)
AJ Holder (born 2000)
Eddie Tsalabutie (1925–1965)
concho belt, mid 1900s–1965
Mamie Mitchell (1929–1993)
unrecorded Chaticks si Chaticks (Pawnee) artist
roach headdress, late 1800s–1928
Rita Belgarde (1918–2005)
star quilt, 1999
pair of beaded moccasins with heels, late 1800s–early 1900s
Chris Pappan (born 1971)
Mary Annette Clause
Tim Lammers
Madeline Cartine
pair of moccasins, 1974–1975
unrecorded Ka’igwu (Kiowa) artist
bag with beaded flap, late 1800s–1950
Ada Bosin (1903–1980)
pair of beaded cuffs, early 1900s–1980
Wolf Robe Hunt (1905–1977)
bolo tie, 1900s
unrecorded Kainai (Blood) artist
beaded necktie and collar, late 1800s–1950
Nora Thompson Dean (1907–1984)
pair of moccasins, late 1800s–1981
Lorene Pokorea
belt ornament, late 1800s–1981
Kenneth Long Crow
Mrs. Lame Bull
pair of beaded moccasins, early 1900s–1919
unrecorded Chaticks si Chaticks (Pawnee) artist
pair of girl's leggings, late 1800s–1980
unrecorded Flathead artist
Lambert Homer (1917–1972); Dan Simplicio (1917–1969, active 1920s–1950s)
unrecorded Ka’igwu (Kiowa) artist
pair of beaded moccasins, late 1800s–1996
Bernard Homer
bolo tie, late 1800s–1964
Lani Porter
Tim Lammers
dyed quills, 1991
Jodi Webster (born 1977)
Skoden, 2023
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Grass Dancer, 1988
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Joe Kelly, 1990
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Messengers, 1985
Rhonda Holy Bear (born 1959, active 1977–present)
Naiomi Glasses (born 1997); Polo Ralph Lauren
wool coat, 2024
Diamond Williams (born 1995)
Land and Sea, 2024 - 2024
Aiyana Jack (born 1995)
Mattel, Inc (founded 1945)
Aiyana Jack (born 1995)
Jamie Okuma (born 1977); Eighth Generation (founded 2008)
Aiyana Jack (born 1995)
Elias Jade Not Afraid (born 1990)
Mattel, Inc (founded 1945)
Mattel, Inc (founded 1945)
Mattel, Inc (founded 1945)
Mel Beaulieu (born 1995); The Beads Knees
Mister Hands, 2023
Leona Antoine (born 1979); Morning Star Designs by Leona Antoine
Steven Paul Judd; The NTVS (founded 2014)
Indian Power pin, circa 1970s
Rebekah Jarvey (born 1964); Nike, Inc. (founded 1964)
Lauren Good Day (born 1978)
MMIW patch, 2020s
Lauren Thomas; Nike, Inc. (founded 1964)
Lisa LaRue-Baker (born 1962); Konrad Pumpkin Seed (born 2005)
Rebekah Jarvey (born 1964); Nike, Inc. (founded 1964)
Mona Cliff (Hanuk-gah-nee/Cloud she is Spotted) (born 1977)
NDN-uity, 2024
Jeffrey Gibson (born 1972); Tandem Press
himmak pilla, 2022
Jamie Okuma (born 1977)
Becoming, 2022

Events

September 10, 2024
Talk
12:00–1:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 317 Perkins Central Court
September 10, 2024
Activity
1:00–3:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 409 Lee Study Center
September 12, 2024
Talk
10:15–11:00AM
Spencer Museum of Art, 317 Perkins Central Court
September 12, 2024
Social
4:00–6:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 1301 Mississippi St
September 25, 2024
Talk
3:00–4:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 317 Perkins Central Court
October 26, 2024
Activity
1:00–4:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art
October 26, 2024
Activity
1:00–4:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art
October 27, 2024
Screening
2:00–4:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 318 Brosseau Learning Center
November 16, 2024
Activity
1:00–4:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 317 Perkins Central Court
November 16, 2024
Talk
1:00–3:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 318 Brosseau Learning Center
November 17, 2024
Performance
2:00–3:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art
November 21, 2024
Screening
6:00–7:00PM
Spencer Museum of Art, 318 Brosseau Learning Center
November 22, 2024
Talk
12:00–1:00PM
December 14, 2024
Performance
4:00–6:00PM
Kansas Union Ballroom, 1301 Jayhawk Blvd

Resources

Documents